GLOSSARY

The following list of definitions is by no means complete, but it will serve to aid the reader uninitiated in the complex terminology of fabric and costume history. English words used in the text that can be found in standard dictionaries are not included below, unless they had specific meanings during the age of Napoleon that are no longer in use.

Fabrics

Amaranth; Deep bluish-red color.

Armure (weave): In weaving, the order in which warp and weft threads cross. The basic weaves are tabby, serge, and satin [q. v.). Combined weaves include pekins, bayaderes, and checked cloths. Special weaves are required for gauze and velvet.

Batiste: Very fine, tightly woven fabric, usually linen or cotton.

Blonde'. Lightweight, shiny bobbin lace of raw silk.

Brocade (brocart): Traditionally, a type of silk damask with patterns woven in gold or silver. The main centers of production were Lyon and Tours.

Brocatelle: Gold or silk brocade with very rich ornamentation, usually polychrome; of Italian origin.

Broche: Fabric decorated by supplementary wefts introduced into the background weave.

Cambric; Fine, closely woven linen or cotton fabric.

Cannele: Weave (armure) with parallel ribs in the weft, formed by warp floats.

Cannetille: Weave forming a pattern of small, interlocked checks or rectangles, made by flushing an additional floating warp over a tabby ground created by the main warp.

Cashmere: Very fine hair from Kashmir goats, used either pure or mixed with wool. Indian cashmere was imitated in France, where it was made with fine wool.

Changeant taffeta: Taffeta with warp and weft of different colors, creating an iridescent effect.

Chenille: Thread formed by a fine, twisted, and fringed ribbon, used as trimming or as part of a woven fabric; also, military ornament (see below).

Chine: Thread with various colors obtained by dyeing or printing; characterizing a fabric woven with chine threads, either for the warp or the weft, or for both, precolored according to a certain motif, e. g. chine velvet, chine taffeta.

Crepe; Fabric made with a twisted thread ijiL de crepe) or altered tension on alternate warp threads to achieve puckered effect; the best known crepe is crepe de Chine, originally made of silk.

Crepine: Trim of very long, knotted fringes.

Damask: Fine fabric of silk or linen, usually in a single color, more or less elaborately patterned, and reversible.

Droguet (drugget): Coarse wool fabric made with a cotton, silk, or linen warp.

Duck: Plain-woven heavy linen fabric.

Embroidery: Ornamental designs made with a needle or hook and cotton, wool, linen, silk, or metal thread on a cloth support.

Faille: Type of taffeta in which the weft is heavier or thicker than the warp.

Yi/e: Smooth metallic thread wound on a silk or linen core.

Florence: Lightweight silk taffeta originally made in Florence, then in Lyon.

Frise: Crimped or looped thread.

Gauze: Sheer, transparent cotton, silk, or wool fabric in which the warp threads are twisted around the weft; used for trimmings and clothing.

Gorgoran: Type of gros de Tours fabric {q. v.}, with a heavier warp and weft; during the Empire, term used to describe fabrics with vertical stripes produced by different kind of weave.

Gros de Naples: Fabric similar to gros de Tours but with a heavier texture.

Gros de Tours: Tabby weave with a weft of much larger diameter than the warp, usually of silk.

Indienne: Painted or printed cotton fabric, originally made in the Far East; used first to make informal clothing and later for upholstery.

Jaconas (jaconet): Fine, light cotton fabric, between muslin and percale; originally made in India.

Kerseymere {casimir): Durable, twill-woven fabric of fine wool, used to make vests, coats, and breeches for men and redingotes for women.

Lace {dentelle): A delicate fabric made of linen, cotton, wool, silk, or gold or silver thread made with needles, hooks, bobbins, or machines in a variety of techniques.

Lame: Fabric woven with strips of metal, often gold or silver.

Lampas: Silk fabric in which the pattern is in a different weave structure from the ground.

Lawn: Linen fabric with a fine, transparent plain weave, which can be finished to have a shiny, silklike appearance.

Liser&. Main weft thread, which, besides creating the pattern, also gives a texture to the fabric ground.

Marceline: Soft silk fabric, a type of light taffeta, ordinarily used for dresses.

Moire: Fabric finish with a wavelike, watered effect, caused by a special finishing technique.

Muslin {mousseline): Light cotton fabric of a loose tabby weave, usually plain but occasionally decorated with embroidery.

Nacarat: Light red color, between cherry and rose.

Nankeen: A type of durable yellow cotton tabby cloth, originally handloomed in China and used to make pants and vests.

Panne: A type of velvet with a deep pile, used principally for upholstery; in the 18th century silk panne from Lyon was highly desirable.

Peau de soie (or poult de sole): Taffeta weave of a particularly fine texture.

Percale: Plain, smooth, lightweight cotton fabric.

Pique: Double-woven fabric, usually of cotton, with crosswise corded ribs or elaborate weaves.

Plush: Warp pile fabric less closely woven than velvet with the pile cut longer, usually of wool.

Poplin: Medium-weight, durable plain-weave fabric with fine crosswise ribs; made of cotton, silk, or wool.

Pourpre: Crimson-red dye, made from cochineal.

Ratteen (ratine): Nubbly ply yarn made by twisting thick and thin yarn under tension.

Rep: Fabric with fine, closely spaced horizontal ribs, made of various fibers, especially silk during the 18th century; used mainly for upholstery.

Satin: Basic weave, usually in silk, with long warp or weft floats to give a shiny, smooth surface appearance.

Serge: Basic, durable twill weave of a diagonal pattern, or, by reversing direction, a herringbone or chevron pattern.

Shag: Fabric with long nap on one side; usually of silk, occasionally worsted.

Tabby: Simple, basic weave; also called plain cloth or cloth weave.

Taffeta: Fine, tightly woven silk fabric of the tabby weave; variations include crape, faille, florence, gros de Naples, gros de Tours, grosgrain, mar-celine, muslin, peau de sole, and rep.

Tricot: Plain, warp-knitted silk fabric with fine vertical wales on face and crossribs on back.

Tulle: Thin, transparent net made of fine cotton or silk thread.

Twill (coutil): Plain, durable fabric of very tight weave, characterized by diagonal ribs or patterning.

Velvet: Weave characterized by a pile produced by a warp raised in loops above the ground weave. The loops may be left as loops or cut, creating “uncut” or “cut” velvet.

Costumes

Amadis: Long, full sleeves gathered at intervals by bands around the arm.

Balantine: Women’s handbag, sometimes worn hanging from the belt; nicknamed reticule or ridicule; used during the Directoire.

Bavolet: Cap worn by French peasant women.

Buskin: Calf-length, thick-soled laced boot; originated in ancient Greece. Cothurnes were a type of buskin that covered half of the leg and were laced in front.

Canezou: Women’s high-waisted jacket, usually sleeveless.

Cape: Turned-down collar of a cloak that hangs loosely over shoulders.

Capelet: Small cape or cape collar, attached to or separate from coat or dress.

Capote: Women’s hat with stiff brim and soft crown, tied with ribbons; made of fine fabric, such as satin, velvet, taffeta, or cotton; also military greatcoat (see below).

Caraco: Type of small jacket fitted at the waist and flared in the back, with long, straight sleeves.

Carmagnole: Men’s jacket or short-skirted coat with wide, downturned collar, lapels, and rows of metal buttons; worn with trousers and red caps by the French Revolutionaries in 1792-93.

Carrick: Men’s or women’s full-length greatcoat with multiple tiered capelets.

Chemise dress: Women’s day dress with a low neck gathered on a drawstring; usually worn with a sash.

Cherusque: High fan-shaped collarette or ruff, similar to Medici collar; made of cloth or lace.

Circassienne: Version of the polonaise dress (g. f.) in which the three tails or puffed swags are the same length and the sleeves are very short and funnel-shaped; worn at the time of the French Revolution.

Sleeve that ends in a puffy cuff of a light gauzy fabric.

Manchette de cour: Lace wrist ruffle, attached to dress with ribbon.

Clogs {sabots): Shoes made with thick wooden soles attached to foot by straps.

Cockade: Rosette of ribbons, usually flat around a center button, attached to a hat or lapel.

Cornette: Bonnet with a gathered crown that can be turned down.

Culottes: Knee breeches.

Demi-bateau: Silk top hat with wide brim tilted in front and back; worn during the Directoire.

Douillette: Type of redingote, loose-fitting and without back pleat.

Fourreau: Woman s dress in which the back bodice and petticoat are cut in one piece with no waist seam.

Gabrielle: Frill or fluted ruff, sometimes worn as a standing collar.

Hongreline: Riding coat worn by French coachmen and footmen.

Juive: Douillette {q. v.) that reached only to the calves.

Levite: Men s long frockcoat or women s long dress with deep cape collar; resembled a garment worn by Levite priests.

A la libert&. Soft red cap worn folded over; also called bonnet rouge.

Mameluck, a la: Womens knee-length tunic with long, full sleeves and wide, pleated backs; inspired by Napoleon s Egyptian campaign in 1798; also refers to a style of turban and a type of

Mantle: Loose, sleeveless capelike cloak of varying length; fastened by pin or clasp on one shoulder or tied at neck.

A la mariniere: Cuff shape of late 18th century, with small turned-back cuff decorated with flap and buttons matching those of coat.

Marmotte: Fichu knotted under the chin over the top of a bonnet or hat.

Mitten sleeve: Women s tightly fitted sleeve of lace or net reaching to the wrist.

Neglig&. Informal flowing day or at-home robe, worn by both men and women; grand neglige was more elaborate, with embroidery and other embellishments, worn by women.

Palatine: Women’s small fur or lace shoulder cape, sometimes with hood; also, a long snakelike wrap, usually of fur or swansdown.

Panniers: Framework of wire or bone used to expand women’s skirt on each side at hips.

Pelerine: Women’s short shoulder cape of fur, velvet, or muslin; cape collar trimmed with lace.

Pelisse: Long loose cloak open in front, often trimmed and lined with fur; sometimes with a hood; worn by both men and women in 18th century; word also used for redingotes or long coats in early 19th century.

Phrygian bonnet, or Phrygian cap: Hat with high rounded peak curving forward with hanging side lappets.

Pierrot: Type of caraco jacket but with more fanciful cut and trimming.

Polonaise: Womens ankle-length dress with fitted bodice, low neckline, and tight elbow-length sleeves with ruffled wrists; overskirt raised by drawstrings or buttons to reveal underskirt. Also, men’s blue military coat during the reign of Napoleon.

Redingote: Man’s long overcoat with overlapping front skirts and wide collar; also, the name used for a women’s coatlike outergarment with a high waist and long sleeves, generally full-length and made of wool, silk, or cotton, with a variety of trimmings; see also military redingote, below.

Robe d Fanglaise: Dress with fitted bodice and back pleats stitched down to waist, worn open over a petticoat of the same fabric; less formal alternative to robe d la franqaise during this period.

Robe d la franqaise: Formal dress with a fitted bodice opening over a stomacher and matching petticoat with double box pleats at the back falling from the shoulders to the ground.

Robe d la turque: Originally a gown with a very tight bodice, closed in front, with an attached open-front outer robe with a collar and funnel-shaped sleeves, worn with a draped sash; there were later versions.

Robinson hat: Type of silk top hat with narrow brim.

Ruching: Trimming made of pleated lace, ribbon, or light fabric stitched through center.

En sabot: Sleeve worn with polonaise dress, fitted around the elbow.

Spencer: Women’s high-waisted jacket, with a shawl collar, often fur-trimmed and sleeveless or with long sleeves; sometimes collarless.

Stomacher: Triangular panel, often embroidered, trimmed, or covered with ribbon bows, pinned to the corset; worn with the robe d la franqaise.

Toque; Soft, draped, brimless, close-fitting cloth women’s hat, sometimes decorated with flowers or feathers.

Train {bas de robe): Elongated back of skirt that lies on floor and is pulled long; used at court to indicate rank.

Vest: Traditionally, a man’s long-sleeved, long waistcoat, but after 1780 a gilet vest was a shorter, waist-length garment, often embroidered in front and of plain fabric in back, with large down-turned collars or lapels.

Witzchouras: Beltless greatcoat of fur with fur hood, raised collar.

Military Uniforms

Basane: Strip of woven bronze lace covering the outer seam of breeches of Second Carabineers.

Bearskin cap: Cylindrical hat covered with bearskin fur, higher in front than in the rear; with inset embroidered cloth top and metallic stamped plate worn at the front.

Bicorne: Cocked hat with two distinct corners, forming a crescent or half circle when viewed from the side; adapted from the tricorne.

Bonnet dflamme: Military hat, either mirliton or shako, with Jlamme [q. v.) attached.

Capote: Full circular cape with wide cape collar and red lining.

Charivari: Cavalry overalls, usually of leather, chamois, buckskin, or suede; sewn together from the inseams to the instep of the pants leg and left open to be buttoned up the scalloped outer seam from hem to waist.

Chenille: Caterpillarlike crest ornament on a carabineer helmet, made of wool or animal hair, often

Dyed a bright color; larger at the front than at the

Rear.

Colback: Round, drumlike military cap covered with bearskin or other fur; had a cloth emboidered and laced crown pulled up and over the top to form a bag or flamme on one side, often with a plume at the front or side; worn by hussars, chasseurs a cheval and horse artillery.

Cravat: Neckcloth or kerchief; invented by Croatian troops in the time of Louis XIV and adapted by the fashion-conscious during the age of Napoleon.

Cuirass: Piece of body armor, including breastplate and backplate, joined and hinged at the shoulders and belted at the waist.

Czapska: Polish-style military cap with square top for turban plate and visor at the front; used by Polish troops in French service under Napoleon.

Dolman: Hungarian-style tunic worn by hussars, with horizontal rows of lace braid across the chest diminishing in width from shoulder to waist; worn under a pelisse by hussars, chasseurs d cheval, a pied, and horse artillery.

Facings: Traditionally, those areas of the coat where unit colors were displayed, but came to refer to cuffs, lapels, collars, and coattail linings; see also revers.

Flamme: Colored wing or bag of cap attached so it would fly free in wind when wearer was moving.

Frac: Double-breasted coat, the lapels of which were made to button back to show facings or revers or to button across; cut away at the breast to reveal vest and breeches and around the hips to the tails; originally an undress uniform worn for everyday.

/raise: Strawberry-red colored cloth lining of cuirass visible beyond edge of armor.

Frock coat: Man s suit coat, close-fitting, single - or double-breasted, and buttoned to waistline, with full knee-length skirt, flapped pockets, and vent in back.

Houpette: Onion or bomb-shaped horsehair tuft or ornament on front of the helmet crest of a “Minerva” placed just in front of the falling horse-mane crest.

Hungarian sash: Rope-and-barrel sash peculiar to the hussars; originally a rope for tethering horses.

Kurtka: Tuniclike coat cut to the waist in front with tails behind reaching only to the bottom of the buttocks; with distinctively tailored lapels cut with two notches and with turned-back pointed cuffs; military adaptation of Polish coat; worn especially by lancers.

Mirliton: Inverted funnellike hat of Hungarian origin; larger at the bottom than top, to which wing or flamme was attached; also had a cockade, plume, and cords. Worn by hussars and, for a time, chasseurs a cheval and a pied.

Pelisse: Waist-length, fur-trimmed, and lined overcoat of Hungarian origin, peculiar to hussar, and later chasseur units. Laced and braided horizontally across chest with fur collar cuffs and border and cord and toggle on collar; worn over dolman.

Raquettes: Flat ornamental braid-ends attached to various helmet cords.

Redingote: Overcoat or greatcoat, generally double-breasted with hem reaching to the knees or calf; originally for dismounted duty.

Revers: Colored turnbacks on a military coat comprising lapel facings, collar, cuffs, coat-tail linings, and occasionally pocket flaps.

Rosettes: Stamped metal ornaments that were large, buttonlike objects on helmets or shakos to which chinstraps were attached.

Rotonde: Small circular cape that buttons in front.

Rotonelle: Round cape reaching to elbow, later to knees and below (and renamed mantle); worn as part of and over redingote, later separated for horsemen.

Sabretache: Flat leather case worn suspended from the saber belt on the left side.

Shako: Funnellike headgear larger at top than bottom, with visor, metal plate, and plume at the front. Became popular after Italian campaign; originally of Ottoman Turkish origin.

Tricorne: Hat consisting of crown with large brim worn buttoned or turned up to form three corners; originally for men but later worn by women for horseback riding.

Tunic: Long, plain, close-fitting military jacket.

Jewelry

Bandeau: Narrow piece of ribbon or fabric, sometimes decorated with gems, worn around head.

Cadenat: Piece of jewelry designed to hold a lock of hair.

Chaine: Link necklace.

Chatelaine: Chain or ribbon attached to the costume on which hung a watch and often several charms; sometimes worn in pairs by both men and women in the late 18th century, by men in the 19th.

Collier: Collarlike necklace, ranging from simple choker to multistrand necklace studded with precious stones or embellished with cameos.

Comb: Jeweled hair ornament, or a hair ornament of precious metal and precious or semiprecious stones, with long teeth, worn either in the chignon or at the front of the head.

Creoles: Loop earrings worn by men and women at the end of the 18th century.

Diadem: Jeweled headpiece in the form of a crown, usually part of a set iparure), including bracelet, necklace, and earrings.

Girandole: Showy cluster of gems.

Jaseran: Necklace made up of links of gold or silver.

Parure: Matched set of jewelry, which may include necklace, bracelet, earrings, pin, etc.; grande parure includes a headpiece, while the demi-parure includes everything but the headpiece.

Pendeloque: Drop earrings with pear-shaped stones.

Poire: Earring drops.

Sautoir: Link necklace with pendant in front; also, watch chain worn by a woman.

Ecclesiastical Terms

Capa magna: Hooded cloak worn by cardinals.

Chasuble (Latin: casula): Sleeveless vestment with round neckline and open sides.

Clavi: Ornamental parallel bands worn on the dalmatic; referred to as orphrey [orfroi] bands after the Middle Ages.

Colletin: Vestment cloth that hangs around neck of priest.

Cope (pluvial): Semi-circular mantle without sleeves or armholes, sometimes hooded, fastened at neck; worn by clergymen.

Mozetta: Shoulder-length cape with ornamental hood hanging in back, worn over the rochet by the pope, cardinals, bishops, abbots, and canons.

Rochet: Close-fitting ecclesiastical vestment, generally of linen, with or without sleeves; similar to surplice; worn by church dignitaries.

226. Jean Baptiste Isabey, Petit Habillement of the Emperor, 1804. (Facsimile reproduction of original colored drawing from Livre du Sacre, reprint Paris, 1907.)